The other day our local temperature was 33 degrees, and it dropped to 20 degrees overnight, this huge temperature difference even we can't stand it, let alone ornamental fish, some of the more valuable tropical fish still need long-term heating.
Although the temperature has increased in the past few days, but looking at the weather forecast, there has been rain for four days in a row, and this year's ghost weather is also possible.
As temperatures continue to drop, some tropical aquarium fish need to start warming up, but for many tropical fish, it's still too early, usually in mid-September, and I mean here.
So, which heating tube is better, doesn't it mean that this thing is easy to burst at every turn?
It may have been so before, but now it is not, we have to look at the probability, where are there so many easy to explode? Then the merchant does not have to produce
Many aquarists buy heating pipes and are most worried about explosions, but in fact?
The reason why the heating tube will explode, most of it is due to our unfavorable operation, such as the lack of water of the heating tube, ornamental fish impact, etc., with the current quality of the heating tube, but all the heating tube in the middle and upper reaches of the price, the big brand, basically use, this we don't need to worry too much.
If the quality is not good, no matter how expensive the heating tube is, there will be inferior products, right?
Whether it is glass, stainless steel or PTC ceramic, like our wholesaler here, fish shop, almost a fish store agent a brand of heating tube, if this thing is used every day explosion, then the fish shop would have closed long ago.
Other equipment and fish feed are a truth, if you want to be better, then buy according to the high-end price, there will be no problem.
The key issue is to avoid errors and prevent boiling the fish
The most important problem to pay attention to when using heating tubes is to test the temperature difference in advance, and a better quality thermometer is equipped as a reference value for monitoring the actual water temperature, because most of the heating tubes' display temperature is not very accurate.
For example, although the heating rod shows 30 degrees, it is possible that the actual water temperature is only 28 degrees, or 32 degrees, which is very normal.
Therefore, all experienced aquarists must start testing whether the heating tube works normally and whether the temperature is accurate three days before the ornamental fish enter the tank.
No matter what kind of principle of heating tube, there may be errors or accidentally cook fish, and some aquarists, will buy a separate thermostat, and the heating tube together, so that the use, will be more secure.
Although there is a formula, this formula can only be used as a rough reference
Although there is a formula for the choice of heating tubes, which roughly says that 1 liter of water can choose a heating tube of 2 watts, this value is only a very general reference value.
Many aquarists will ask, you see, I am a one-meter fish tank, how big a heating tube do I need?
In fact, looking at this kind of question is a layman, who does not understand too many variables at all:
First, how many degrees will our room temperature be, and how many degrees do we want to increase?
This is a question that would have come to mind easily, such as:
My room temperature is only 8 degrees, I want to heat the fish tank at a constant temperature of 32 degrees, and my room temperature is 25 degrees all year round, I want to heat to 30 degrees, this heating tube choice, may it be the same?
It is possible that in the first case, a meter of fish tank, 100 liters of water, and a 300-watt heating tube may not be enough, while in the second case, a 100-watt heating tube can be achieved, and a 200-watt heating tube is more safe.
So, how do we answer this question?
Second, is there any insulation measure, can the fish tank open the lid?
The second point is whether the fish tank has insulation measures?
This point is of course also very important, this problem I have long said, in addition to the front, the side of the other fish tank includes the bottom surface, all wrapped by thermal insulation equipment, this cooling amplitude must be very slow, the working time of the heating tube can be effectively shortened.
Including whether the fish tank is with a lid or completely open, the heat loss in it, there will be a big difference.
Third, the filtration form, the length of the filter tank, the size of the water flow, the frequency of water change, etc., are all related
These things don't need to be explained too much, or is it a problem of heat loss, a small fish tank with only a water goblin wrapped tightly on all sides, and a drip box completely open to the drip stream, can its fish tank heat loss be the same, it is simply impossible.
In addition, there are many factors such as our water change frequency, feeding frequency, cylinder opening frequency and so on.
Therefore, since we use heating tubes, we need to consider the above factors to minimize the loss of heat energy in the fish tank, but at the same time, we must also take into account proper ventilation, especially in winter.
In addition, in the case of careful wrapping of the fish tank, the water temperature of the large fish tank is definitely more constant, even if there is a problem, the cooling speed is slow, and the water body must be large.
Moreover, we also leave a certain amount of space in the power selection of the heating tube, especially when the room temperature is not too constant, for example, my two monk fish, although it is an 80 cm fish tank, want to heat to 32 degrees, or need at least 300 watts of heating tubes, I use 500 watts, in fact, it is more stable, and it will not cost more electricity.
I don't need to go into detail about this truth, when the predetermined temperature is reached, the heating tube will stop working.
Is one 500-watt stick better, or two 300-watt good?
Some aquarists will ask, is this fish tank heating tube one or two better?
For example, do I use one 500-watt fish tank or two 300-watt fish tanks?
This question is basically a particle, meaningless, casual.
Because I am using an upper filter fish tank, the heating tube can only be placed in the fish tank, Luo Han fish will have the habit of attacking the heating tube, and the available space of the fish tank is not large, of course, it is more convenient to have one.
So, can two sticks, and what can't it do?
If one is broken and one is working, be prepared, this depends on how the individual thinks, there is no right or wrong at all.
How should the heating tube be placed in the fish tank, can it be placed in the bottom filter compartment?
But where it is a high-end heating tube, there must be instructions for use, which is equivalent to us buying a mobile phone or TV, we do not read the manual, but ask friends around us, how should this mobile phone be opened or used?
I won't say anything ugly, or that sentence, who makes the product, who understands best, is people's manual a piece of waste paper?
How to place it not a pendulum? If you really want to save that little electricity bill, there is no need to raise fish.
In the past, there was an experiment that said that it was an ordinary heating tube, and it was better to place it at an angle of 45 degrees, but now the new heating tube, most of them require vertical placement, there must be a reason for someone's home, because they will have a temperature control probe, we can place it according to people's instructions.
As for whether the bottom filter fish tank needs to be placed in the filter tank, this depends on what fish we raise, and whether it can be put down.
If we raise large ornamental fish and the heating tube is arched in one mouth, do we have to put it in the fish tank?
If the pump chamber of the bottom filter tank is too shallow for the heating tube to be placed at all, do we have to put it?
The rest are some safety precautions, which are mentioned in my article, in short, all about changing water or hand into the fish tank, you must remember to power off first.